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DEPTH OF FIELD, PERSPECTIVE AND SAME FOV WITH TELEPHOTO LENSES
Image
content has three major technical components that we are interested in
for this article FOV (field of view), depth of field and
perspective. These factors are optical in nature and have nothing to
do with the digital side of photography.
DEPTH OF FIELD and SHUTTER SPEEDS
Depth of
field decreases as you shorten the distance between the lens and subject.
This is true for any given focal length lens and aperture. Depth of
field is related to
lens focal length, focused distance and aperture and has nothing to do with
film format size or sensor size. If we must move closer to the
subject with our larger sensor equipped cameras and same focal length
lens to obtain the same FOV
as the 20D, we should expect to see less depth of field for any given
aperture used with the larger sensor equipped cameras. If you like an
out of focus background, for any given lens focal length, aperture and FOV it will be
easier to achieve with the larger sensor equipped cameras. Conversely the
20D with any given FOV, lens focal length and aperture will always have more depth of
field.
I'd like to touch on the subject of appropriate hand held shutter
speeds. There are some folks who claim the old 1/focal length rule isn't
a good starting point for insuring sharp images when hand holding with
smaller image sensor cameras. As an example of the current generally
accepted rule, to minimize image softness due to camera shake use 1/250
sec as your minimum hand held shutter speed for a 250mm lens.
Some people are advocating 1.6 X focal length as your minimum hand
held shutter speed with a 1.6 crop factored camera (1/400 sec for your
250mm lens). The reasoning given for theory is that the 1.6 crop image
will ultimately have to be enlarged more than that same FOV image shot
with with a full frame camera and therefore, any camera shake induced
blur will be more magnified in enlargements. It seems to me that physics
would tell us that image blur due to camera shake is related to three
factors: the distance from the camera to subject, the lens's focal
length (actual magnification power) and the shutter speed used. The full
frame DSLR would require a slightly longer focal length lens (more
magnification) at the same focused distance to achieve the same FOV or
need to be closer to the subject if the same focal length lens was used
to get the same FOV. Both of these conditions would theoretically
enhance the chance for camera shake blur. In practice, I'd bet it would
be a wash. I suspect that other factors such the strength of the
shooter, the weight of the lens/camera and just plain old technique
would be more important factors in reducing handshake induced image
blur.
I will say that all of these digital cameras are producing relatively
high resolution images. The big prints that people
are now more willing to make with their clean high resolution DSLR
images will show off photographic skills (or lack thereof) and lens
quality issues in startling fashion. I've found from experience that at
my advanced age and decrepitude I can't hand hold my 1Ds Mark II and
400mm lens at much less than 1/800 second if I expect to get all
the resolution that this lens is capable of. That's twice the old rule
of thumb of 1/focal length.
PERSPECTIVE
The photographic term perspective is used to describe the relational size differences between
objects in the foreground of your photo and objects in the background of
your photo. Foreground objects are those parts of the image that are
closest to the camera. Background objects are those parts of the image
that are furthest from the camera. For any given focal length lens, the
closer you get to the nearest part of your subject the more those near objects seem to
become larger in proportion to the background objects. As a practical
example. A 50mm lens on a full frame DSLR is considered to be equal to a normal
human eye FOV, and therefore, normal perspective. If you focused the
50mm lens from eye level on a landscape scene, the objects
in the foreground will look to be the proper size in relation to objects
in the background. Take that same camera and lens and focus it 10 inches
from a person's nose and the resulting photo will have that person's
nose looking way bigger than it actually is on their face. You'd get
approximately the
same FOV with your own eyes if you just walked up to someone and
stared at their nose from 10 inches away.
SAME FOV WITH TELEPHOTO LENSES
In the image series below we moved our tripod and 180 lens until we had the same
field of view for all three photos. Well, not quite, due to the 20D and 1D Mark II not having
a 100% accurate viewfinder, we ended up with about a 5% error between the 20D and
1D, and including the 1Ds Mark II, there's about a 10% spread in the
error. Oh how I hate sloppy testing technique.
Less than perfect framing (FOV) aside. I think it is fairly easy to see
that with the same FOV and same output resolution pixel
density doesn't really effect the amount of detail in the two 8mp camera images. See the 20D and 1D Mark II full
resolution crops of the bear's nose below. The only thing that shows up in this
'same field of view' series with an excellent telephoto prime
lens is that overall image resolution is the main factor
contributing to image quality. The 1Ds Mark II bear's nose crop, even if
you factor in for about10% framing error, contains noticeably more
detail than the other two cameras. However, the 1Ds Mark II didn't exactly blow the
other two cameras out of the water in this series. Sure, it has quite a few more
pixels but the 20D and 1D Mark II acquitted themselves rather well in
this series.
Since the two 8mp cameras have the same output resolution and this
image set has the same FOV, the 20D
and 1D Mark II nose crops would have had the same pixel dimensions if I
had been able to get the exact same field
of view. |